Alexander Huber

Alexander Huber (born December 1968 in Trostberg, Bavaria), is a German climber and mountaineer. He lives in Bavaria with his wife and children. He has a Masters in Physics.

Contents

• Thomas and alexander huber
• Alexander huber free solo hasse brandlerviii
• Notable climbs
• Literature
• Movies
• References

When they were still young Alexander Huber and his brother Thomas Huber were taken into the mountains by their father, Thomas Huber, himself a noted climber known for early fast ascents of now classic climbs. Together with his brother Thomas, he became interested in extreme alpine climbing.

Alexander was state-certified mountain and skiing guide in 1992. He studied physical meteorology, became a professional mountaineer in 1997, and was one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers of the 2000s. While being an all-round climber, Alexander is most famous for his bold free ascents of big walls, and his expeditions in the Karakoram, Antarctica, and Greenland.

Notable climbs

1992 First Ascent of Om (5.14d/9a), Triangel / Bavaria

1994 First Ascent of Weisse Rose (5.14d/9a), Schleierwasserfall / Austria

1995 Free Ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite Valley

1996 First ascent of Open Air (5.15a/9a+), Schleierwasserfall / Austria, the most difficult sport route of its time. It was initially graded as 9a, but recently found its second ascent by Adam Ondra, who upgraded it to 9a+ trying to fit to the "new school" grading situation.

1997 Tsering Mosong, West Face of Latok II, 7108m, Karakoram, VII 5.10c A3, 2200 m: FA with Thomas Huber, Conrad Anker and Toni Gutsch

1998 Cho Oyu (8201m), Himalaya, Nepal

1998 First Ascent of El Nino (5.13c), El Capitan, Yosemite

1998 First Ascent of Free Rider (5.12d), El Capitan, Yosemite

2000 First Ascent of Golden Gate (5.13a), El Capitan, Yosemite

2001 First Ascent of Bellavista, (5.14b/8c), Cima Ovest, Dolomites, Italy

2001 First Ascent of El Corazon, (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite

2002 Free Solo Ascent of the Direttissima (500m, 5.12a) of Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy

2002 Cerro Torre, Cerro Standhardt and Fitz Roy in Patagonia

2003 First Redpoint Ascent of Free Zodiac (5.13d), El Capitan, Yosemite

2004 Free Solo Ascent of the Kommunist (5.14a), Austria

2004 Speed Record on the Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 1:51:34

2005 First Redpoint Ascent of Voie Petit (5.13d/8b) on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc

2006 First Ascent of Golden Eagle (5.11/A1), Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia

2006 Free Solo Ascent of the South Face (5.11a) of Dent du Géant (4013m), Mont Blanc

2007 First Ascent of Pan Aroma (5.14b/8c), Cima Ovest, Dolomites, Italy

2007 Speed Record on The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 2:45:45, till 07/2008

2008 First Ascent of the Westface (5.11/A1) of "La Silla", Patagonia

2008 With an ascent of Torre Egger, Alexander finished the collection of the three Torres: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia

2008 First Ascent of Sansara and Feuertaufe, both 5.14a, two alpine multi-pitch climbs in the Tyrolean Alps

2008 First Free Solo Ascent of Grand Capucin (5.10), Mont Blanc

2009 First Free Ascent with Thomas Huber of Eternal Flame, (5.13a), on Trango ("Nameless") Tower (6,239 m), Pakistan.

Literature

Alexander Huber und Thomas Huber: The Wall. BLV, 2000

Alexander Huber: Yosemite. Ottobrunn : Bergverlag Rother, 2002

Alexander Huber und Willi Schwenkmeier: Drei Zinnen. Bergverlag Rother, 2003

Alexander Huber, Heinz Zach: Yosemite. Baton Wicks, London, 2003. Compilation of essays by important Yosemite rock climbers.

Movies

Am Limit 2007, Speed climbing the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite.

Center of the Universe Climbing in Yosemite