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Fitz Roy

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Listing
  
Ultra

Elevation
  
3,359 m

Prominence
  
1,951 m

Parent range
  
Mountain type
  
First ascent
  
2 February 1952

Mountain range
  
Andes

Fitz Roy httpsuploadwikimediaorgwikipediacommonsthu

Location
  
Easiest route
  
Franco Argentina (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)

First ascenders
  
Guido Magnone, Lionel Terray

Similar
  
Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Cerro Catedral, Aguja Saint Exupery, Aconcagua

Monte Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, or simply Mount Fitz Roy) is a mountain located near El Chaltén village, in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile. First climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, it remains among the most technically challenging mountains for mountaineers on Earth.

Contents

Map of Fitz Roy

Monte Fitz Roy is the basis for the Patagonia clothing logo following Yvon Chouinard's ascent and subsequent film in 1968.

Fitz roy los glaciares national park santa cruz province patagonia argentina south america


Discovery

Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno first saw the mountain on 2 March 1877. He named it Fitz Roy, in honour of Robert FitzRoy, who, as captain of the HMS Beagle had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.

Cerro is a Spanish word meaning hill, while Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", due to a cloud that usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy, however, was only one of a number of peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.

Setting

It has been agreed by Argentina and Chile that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit, but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined. The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its coat of arms.

Notable ascents

  • 1952 Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (aka Franco-Argentine Ridge)(First Ascent - February 2, 1952)
  • 1965 Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in 2-1/2 days (Second Ascent)
  • 1968 Southwest Ridge aka The Californian Route (3rd ascent of peak). FA by Yvon Chouinard, Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores and Douglas Tompkins (all from USA).
  • 1972 Southeast Ridge (4th ascent of peak). Ian Wade, Dave Nicol, Mo Anthoine, Guy Lee, Larry Derby & Eddie Birch. Ian & Larry from USA others UK.
  • In 1980 following the Col Americano route Gino Casassa, Chilean, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile, and Walter Bertsch, from Austria, arrived the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (Chilean too), arrived just to 2800 mts.
  • 1984 Franco Argentina Route by Marcos Couch, Eduardo Brenner, Alberto Bendiger y Pedro Friedrich.
  • 2002 Dean Potter, solo Supercanaleta
  • 2009 Colin Haley, solo Supercanaleta
  • 2009 Matthew McCarron, solo The Californian Route
  • 2012 Jorge Morales and Alejandro Heres broke the speed record of ascent.
  • 2014 Between the 12th and 16 February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.
  • References

    Fitz Roy Wikipedia


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