Supriya Ghosh (Editor)

Torre Egger

Updated on
Edit
Like
Comment
Share on FacebookTweet on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare on Reddit
Parent range
  
Elevation
  
2,685 m

Prominence
  
275 m

Easiest route
  
rock/snow/ice

First ascent
  
22 February 1976

Mountain range
  
Andes

Torre Egger wwwmontagnatvcmswpcontentuploads201101Tor

Location
  
Province
  
Santa Cruz Province, Argentina

First ascenders
  
Jim Donini, John Bragg, Jay Wilson

Similar
  
Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Saint Exupery, Thalay Sagar

Torre Egger is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile, west of Cerro Chalten (also known as Fitz Roy). The peak is between Cerro Torre, the highest in a four mountain chain and Cerro Stanhardt. It is named after the Austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926-1959), who died while attempting neighboring Cerro Torre.

Contents

Map of Torre Egger, Santa Cruz Province, Argentina

First ascent

In 1976, John Bragg, Jim Donini and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.

Other ascents

  • 1986 Psycho Vertical (Southeast Face) (UIAA ED+ VII+ A3 90deg, 950m) Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo, Franc Knez (Yugoslavia), December 7, 1986.
  • 1987 Titanic (East Pillar) (UIAA VI+ A2), Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi (Italy), November 2 to 5, 1987.
  • 1994 Badlands (YDS VI 5.10 A3 WI4+, 1000m) Conrad Anker, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding (US), FA 12 December 1994.
  • 2005 Titanic (East Pillar) (UIAA VI+ A2) Steph Davis, Dean Potter. The first female ascent of Torre Egger and likely the first one-day ascent of the mountain.
  • 2012 Die another day" (west face) (UIAA VIII A1) Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella . The route end up 25m below col de lux.
  • 2013 Notti magiche" (West face) (UIAA VIII A1) Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera. From Col de Lux to the top the Italian duo has followed the Huber-Sharf, 200m of rock and then ice line
  • In January 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made the first complete traverse of the entire massif, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at Grade VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6, with 2,200 m (7,200 ft) total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra.

    References

    Torre Egger Wikipedia


    Similar Topics