Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber. He specializes in lead climbing and bouldering and is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he won both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He also has a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.
As of September 3, 2017, Ondra is the only climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9c (5.15d) (Silence, September 3, 2017), and he climbed 1232 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9c (5.15d), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 3 were onsights at 9a (5.14d).
He is also the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, October 4, 2012), and the second to have onsighted a 9a (5.14d) route (Cabane au Canada, July 9, 2013). According to The Economist Ondra is "regarded as possibly the best climber ever to fondle rock".
Rock climbing techniques adam ondra is a bouldering phenomenon
Biography
Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers and they shared their passion with him.
In 1999 (at age six) at Rovinj in Croatia Ondra climbed easy 6a (5.10a) routes with bolts every half meter. But soon he became famous in climbing magazines, as his achievements quickly grew more and more notable:
In 2001 (at age eight) he onsighted 7b+ (5.12c) routes.
In 2002 (at age nine) he onsighted 7c+ (5.13a) and redpointed 8a (5.13b).
In 2003 (at age ten) he onsighted 8a (5.13b).
In 2004 (at age eleven) he onsighted 8a+ (5.13c) and redpointed 8c (5.14b).
In 2005 (at age twelve) he onsighted 8b (5.13d).
In 2006 (at age thirteen) he managed to redpoint his first 9a (5.14d), Martin Krpan at Misja Pec.
In 2007 and 2008 he won the IFSC Youth World Championship, category Youth B.
In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup and won, beating Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.
In 2010 he also won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Japanese Tsukuru Hori, and becoming the first athlete in history to win both the disciplines (lead and bouldering).
On March 2011 during a trip in Spain Ondra became the second person ever to have onsighted 8c+ (5.14c) after Patxi Usobiaga. In a couple of days he onsighted five 8c+ (5.14c) routes (two of which on the same day).
On October 4, 2012, Ondra sent Change, in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger, Norway. It was the first route to receive a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c).
On October 29, 2012, Ondra flashed one of the Red River Gorge's hardest routes, Southern Smoke Direct 9a+ (5.15a), suggesting the grade of 9a (5.14d). On November 1, he onsighted Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, both 9a, suggesting the grade of 8c+.
On February 7, 2013, Ondra sent La Dura Dura, in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second 9b+ (5.15c) after Change. He worked on this project with Chris Sharma and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks of work.
On February 9, 2013, just two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the 9b (5.15b) Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011.
On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second 9a (5.14d) onsight in history after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.
On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of The Dawn Wall, a 5.14d (9a) multi-pitch route in Yosemite Valley, California. The route is widely regarded as the hardest big wall in the world. Ondra was also the first person to lead every pitch. The first free ascent was completed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in January 2015.
On April 23, 2017, he set a new highpoint of the Black Diamond Project in Stockholm, Sweden. Believed to be the hardest indoor sport route in the world.
On September 3, 2017, Ondra sent Silence, in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger, Norway. It was the first route to receive a proposed grade of 9c (5.15d). The route was previously known as Project Hard. He worked on the project for about 4 years.
Climbing World Championships
Youth
Adult
Single-pitch routes
The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 12 years, from 2 August 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to September 3, 2017. The total number is 1232, of which 1 was at 9c (5.15d) and 565 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d).
Redpoint
9c (5.15d):
Silence (formerly known as Project hard) - Flatanger (NOR) - September 3, 2017 - First ascent and world's first 9c. (The grade has to be confirmed)
9b+ (5.15c):
Vasil Vasil - Sloup (CZE) - December 4, 2013 - First ascent
La Dura Dura - Oliana (ESP) - February 7, 2013 - First ascent
Change - Flatanger (NOR) - October 4, 2012 - First ascent and world's first 9b+ (The grade has to be confirmed)
9b (5.15b):
Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent
Queen Line - Laghel (Arco, Trentino, ITA) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent
Mamichula - Oliana (ESP) - February 8, 2017 - First ascent
Robin Ud - Alternativna stena (SVK) - October 5, 2016 - First ascent
C.R.S. - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
Move - Flatanger (NOR) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent, Ondra graded the route 9b/+
Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent
Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011)
La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 22, 2011 - First ascent
Chilam Balam - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)
Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start
La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent
Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)
9a+ (5.15a):
Naturalmente - Camiore (ITA) - April 21, 2017 - First ascent
Los Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009
Métaphysique Des Tubes - Seynes (FRA) - February 21, 2009
Absinth - Sparchen (AUT) - August 16, 2008
Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 7, 2008
Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 5, 2008
Boulders
Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008, 2009 2010 and 2011.
He climbed 202 boulders between 8A (V11) and 8C+ (V16). Namely:
2 8C+/V16
6 8C/V15
18 8B+/V14
35 8B/V13
56 8A+/V12
85 8A/V11
8C+ (V16):
Gioia - Varazze (ITA) - December 6, 2011 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008)
Terranova - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - November 10, 2011 - First ascent, traverse
8C (V15):
Cháron - Petrohrad (Mlýnský vrch, (CZE) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent
Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (CHE) - October 1, 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
Pata ledovce - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent
Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (Cederberg mountains, ZAF) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - November 30, 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)
Big Paw - Chironico (CHE) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)
Multi-pitch routes
The Dawn Wall - El Capitan (USA) - 3,000 feet (915 meters) tall - 32 pitches, at least two of which graded 9a (5.14d). Described as the hardest big wall in the world.
Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (MDG) - October 10, 2010 - First free ascent
Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (MDG) - October 7, 2010
Tough Enough Original - Karambony (MDG) - October 4, 2010 - First free ascent
Tough Enough - Karambony (MDG) - September 30, 2010 - First free ascent
Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - October 18, 2008 - First onsight ascent
Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée (Aiglun, FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent
WoGü - Rätikon (CHE) - July 26, 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997)
Zub za zub - Rätikon (CHE) - July 29, 2007 - First free ascent
Silbergeier - Rätikon (CHE) - July 27, 2007
Filmography
The Wizard's Apprentice - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - 110'
La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World - 2014 - Part of Reel Rock 7 by Big Up Productions
Change - 2014 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood -
