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Marcus Schmuck

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Name
  
Marcus Schmuck

Role
  
Mountaineer


Marcus Schmuck wwwhelmutschmidtonlinedeHermannBuhlHomepage

Died
  
August 21, 2005, Salzburg, Austria

Similar People
  

First ascents
  

Broad Peak 1st Ascent: An Interview with Qader Saeed


Marcus Schmuck (April 18, 1925 – August 21, 2005) was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Buhl, to climb the world's 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak (8,047 metres) in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger. In his later years, he successfully organized and led 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world.

Contents

First ascents

  • 1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, Southwest face, V
  • 1948 Wildalmkirchl, South traverse, V+
  • 1949 Fleischbank, direct East chimney ("Schmuckkamin"), VI
  • Sommerstein, West face, 1. winter ascent
  • 1953 Birnhorn, South face, 1. winter ascent
  • 1955 Snökuppelen, North face, IV
  • Falkenstein, Southeast ridge, III
  • Westbyfijell, South face, III and Southeast ridge, II
  • 1956 Petit Dru, West face, record time 1.5 days
  • Bischofsmütze direct North face, VI+
  • 1957 Broad Peak 8047m on June 9
  • Skil Brum 7420m on June 19
  • 1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East ridge
  • 1963 Koh i Sayoz 6920m
  • Koh i Shogordok 6855m
  • 1965 Darban Zom 7220m
  • Wildalmkirchl, South traverse
  • 1982 Muztagh Ata 7546m, 3rd ascent, new route
  • Books

    Marcus Schmuck wrote the following book:

  • Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
  • References

    Marcus Schmuck Wikipedia