Listing Ultra Elevation 7,665 m Prominence 1,624 m | Easiest route rock/snow/ice climb First ascent 2 August 1975 Parent range Karakoram | |
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Location Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan First ascenders Eduard Koblmuller, Fred Pressl, Gustav Ammerer Mountain range Karakoram, Masherbrum Mountains Similar Masherbrum, Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum III, Saltoro Kangri, Malubiting | ||
Chogolisa (or Bride Peak) is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa I) rises to 7,668 metres (25,157 ft). The second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side (Chogolisa II) is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.
Map of Chogolisa
In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a world altitude record.
Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SE ridge. On June 27 a sudden snow storm forced them to retreat and on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.
In 1958, a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara(桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top.
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.