Movies Everest Unmasked
Partner Jutta Wechselberger
Name Peter Habeler
|Born 22 July 1942 (age 81) Mayrhofen, Tyrol, Austria (1942-07-22) |
Occupation Mountaineer, ski instructor
Known for Mount Everest first ascent without supplemental oxygen
Major ascents Mount EverestCho OyuNanga ParbatKangchenjungaHidden PeakYerupaja ChicoEiger north face
Books The Lonely Victory: Mt. Everest '78, Everest, Impossible Victory
People also search for Reinhold Messner, Jutta Wechselberger, Leo Dickinson
In conversation with peter habeler
Peter Habeler Interviewed by Ed Douglas
Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rocky Mountains. He was also the first European to climb on the Big Walls in Yosemite National Park.
He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. Several accomplishments in mountaineering followed. The most notable event was the first ascent without supplemental oxygen of Mount Everest in May 8, 1978 together with Messner, which was previously thought to be impossible. A year after his climb on Everest he published Lonely Victory in 1979. Habeler set further records by descending from the summit to the South Col in only one hour and climbing the North Face of the Eiger in ten hours.
Other eight-thousanders (mountains over 8,000 meters) that Habeler has summited are Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga and Gasherbrum I. He has also climbed Yerupaja Chico (6089 m) in South America. The ascent of Gasherbrum I was made with Messner in 1975, Alpine-style in three days, and is seen by some as ushering in a new era of Alpine-style ascents of eight-thousanders, in contrast to the "siege" tactics which had largely prevailed to this time. It was the first time an eight-thousander had been climbed Alpine-style. Habeler attempted to climb Everest again in 2000 but failed to do so due to fluid in his lungs.
Habeler became a skiing instructor at age twenty one and founded the Peter Habeler Ski and Mountaineering School in his hometown of Mayrhofen, Austria. The school is now run by his son, though Habeler still teaches on occasion.
At age 74, he repeated an ascent on The Eiger's north face with David Lama.