Listing Ultra Elevation 7,428 m Prominence 1,978 m | Easiest route snow/ice climb First ascent 1974 | |
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First ascenders Shinichi Takagi, Tsutomu Ito Similar Saltoro Kangri, Batura Sar, Skyang Kangri, Kanjut Sar, Malubiting | ||
K12 is the second highest peak in the Saltoro Mountains, a subrange of the Karakoram range in the Siachen region, near Jammu and Kashmir. It lies near the Line of Control. Its name comes from its designation given during the original survey of the Karakoram range.
Map of K12
K12 lies to the southwest of the Siachen Glacier; the K12 glacier heads on its northeast slopes and feeds the Siachen. The western slopes of K12 drain to the Bilafond Glacier system, and thence to the Dansam River, and eventually the Indus River.
K12 has seen little climbing activity, partly because of the unsettled political situation and the continued military presence in the area. It was first attempted in 1960, after a reconnaissance visit by famed explorer Eric Shipton in 1957. After a further unsuccessful attempt by a Japanese party in 1971, another Japanese expedition put two climbers, Shinichi Takagi and Tsutomu Ito, on the summit. They fell and died on the descent, and their bodies were not recovered. Another Japanese expedition returned in 1975 and made the second ascent. In 1984 the Indian army took hold of this peak as part of its plan to block any claims on the Siachen Glacier by Pakistan on the undemarcated portion of the Line of Control. No subsequent climbs or attempts are recorded in the Himalayan Index.