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Greg Noll

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Years active  1957–1969
Name  Greg Noll
Website  www.gregnoll.com
Quiver  Long boards, Guns
Stance  Regular

Greg Noll Surf Photography SurferArtcom

Born  February 11, 1937 (age 78) San Diego, California, U.S. (1937-02-11)
Residence  Hiouchi, California, United States
Movies  Going Vertical: The Short Board Revolution
Similar People  Jeff Clark, Mickey Munoz, Laird Hamilton, Gerry Lopez, Stacy Peralta

the real big wedensday 60's the blue surfari "da bull" greg noll


Greg Noll (born February 11, 1937), nicknamed "Da Bull" by Phil Edwards in reference to his physique and way of "charging" down the face of a wave, is an American pioneer of big wave surfing and is also acknowledged as a prominent longboard shaper. Noll was a member of a US lifeguard team that introduced malibu boards to Australia around the time of the 1956 Melbourne Olympic Games. Noll also produced a "legendary" series of 5 Search for Surf movies.

Contents

Greg Noll The Quest For Greg Noll39s Jailhouse Baggies The Surfing

Greg noll mini documentary


Early life

Greg Noll Encyclopedia Of Surfing

Noll was born in San Diego, California. At the age of 3, Noll moved with his family to Manhattan Beach, California. Noll began surfing age 11 in the South Bay, he was a member of Manhattan Beach Surf Club where he learned board shaping from Dale Velzy. Noll was a member of the Los Angeles County Lifeguards and competed in paddleboarding. Noll developed his big wave surfing in Palos Verdes at breaks like Lunada Bay. He moved to Hawaii in 1954, where he finished high school, and lived and surfed at Makaha.

Big waves

Greg Noll Vintage Greg Noll Surf

Noll became known for his exploits in large Hawaiian surf on the North Shore of Oahu. He first gained a reputation in November 1957 after surfing Waimea Bay in 25–30 ft surf when it had previously been thought impossible even to the local Hawaiians. He is perhaps best known for being the first surfer to ride a wave breaking on the outside reef at the so-called Banzai Pipeline in November 1964.

Greg Noll Greg Noll at Billabong XXL Da Bull Is As Awesome As Ever

The wave I caught at Outside Pipeline that day walled up twenty-five-feet high about half a mile in front of me. It broke to the left, so I was riding with my back to the wave, goofyfoot, and it was a god-awful uneasy feeling. Instead of getting smaller as I rode it, the sonofabitch grew on me. It got bigger and bigger, and I started going faster and faster, until I was absolutely locked into it. I felt like I was on a spaceship racing into a void. At first, I could hear my board chattering across the face of the wave in a constant rhythm. As my speed increased, the chattering noise became less frequent. Suddenly there was no noise. For about fifteen or twenty feet, I was airborne. Then I literally was blown off my board.

Greg Noll Surf Art Greg Noll Fine Art Photography amp Paintings

It was later at Makaha, in December 1969, that he rode what many at the time believed to be the largest wave ever surfed. After that wave and the ensuing wipeout during the course of that spectacular ride down the face of a massive dark wall of water, his surfing tapered off and he closed his Hermosa Beach shop in the early 1970s. He and other surfers such as Pat Curren, Mike Stange, Buzzy Trent, George Downing, Mickey Munoz, Wally Froyseth, Fred Van Dyke and Peter Cole are viewed as the most daring surfers of their generation.

Noll is readily identified in film footage while surfing by his now iconic black and white horizontally striped "jailhouse" boardshorts.

The surfing exploits of Noll and other big wave legends were chronicled in the documentary Riding Giants. Noll (with Laird Hamilton and Jeff Clark) also provides his entertaining perspective on Hawaiian big wave surfing that is indexed as a commentary track found in the Riding Giants DVD.

Board shaping

Having shaped surfboards since his youth, and having founded his own surfboard business in the 1950s which reached a high level of commercial success; Noll changed to two decades of commercial fishing, the resurgence of longboards brought Noll back to resume shaping and organize events. Today Noll lives in Hiouchi, California with his wife and shapes re-creations of some of the historic boards from the sport of surfing. Some of these are: Olos and Alaias, a replica of a Duke Kahanamoku board, Malibu Chips, Guns, Da Cats, Pacific System Homes and others.

Works

  • Kampion, Drew & Noll, Greg. Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard, 2007, published by: Gibbs Smith, Layton, Utah ISBN 978-1-58685-776-9
  • Noll, Greg & Gabbard, Andrea. Da Bull: life over the edge, 1989, North Atlantic Books, Berkeley CA, ISBN 1-55643-143-0
  • References

    Greg Noll Wikipedia


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