Listing Ultra Elevation 7,885 m Prominence 2,525 m | Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb First ascent 9 June 1960 | |
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First ascenders Diether Marchart, Günther Stärker Similar Kanjut Sar, Khunyang Chhish, Batura Sar, Gasherbrum III, Malubiting | ||
Disteghil Sar or Distaghil Sar or Destaghil Sar is the highest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range, in Gilgit-Baltistan. It is the 19th highest mountain on earth and the 7th highest peak in Pakistan. Destghil sar is a wakhi language word, that means "above the inner ranch." The mountain has an about 3 km long top ridge above 7400m with three distinct summits: (north)west 7885m, central 7760 m, and (south)east 7696m or 7535m ([1]).
Contents
Map of Destaghil Sar
Climbing history
Distaghil Sar was first climbed in 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart of an Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan. The expedition climbed the western part of the South face and continued over the southwest ridge to the highest summit. Three years earlier, in 1957, an English expedition had attempted to climb the mountain from the South and the West, but failed due to bad weather. Likewise, weather foiled a 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge. The highest, western summit has been scaled twice since in 1980 and 1982 over the original route. Two attempts over the daunting north face, in 1988 and 1998, were unsuccessful. The eastern summit was first climbed in 1980 by a Polish expedition over the east face, and was reascended in 1983.