Puneet Varma (Editor)

Army Mountaineering Association

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Abbreviation
  
AMA

Type
  
Charitable Association

President
  
Maj Gen Ivan Hooper

Formation
  
1957

Membership
  
circa 2,500

Army Mountaineering Association

Headquarters
  
Joint Service Mountain Training Centre (Indefatigable), Llanfair PG, Anglesey, LL61 6NT.

The British Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) is the governing body for climbing competitions and the representative body for mountaineering in the British Army. It is a member of the British Mountaineering Council and is the largest climbing club in the United Kingdom.

Contents

History, Organisation and Status

The AMA was formed on 24th May 1957. It has charitable status and its constitution states that it exists 'To promote military efficiency by encouraging mountaineering in the Army'. Membership is open to serving members of the British Army and the Army Reserve. Since its inception the AMA has been involved in delivering and supporting mountaineering activity for its members. The Association is currently engaged in two major areas of activity which are: mountaineering and climbing competitions each of which is governed separately.

The business of the AMA is managed by an Executive Committee who are elected annually. Its Current President is Major General Ivan Hooper

Mountaineering

The AMA organizes mountaineering training and expeditions for its members and encourages them to organize their own expeditions. It makes grants from the AMA 'Memorial Fund' to help support individuals wishing to take part in significant mountaineering expeditions. Since its inception the AMA has organized or provided significant support to a number of major expedition to the Greater Ranges including:

  • 1959 – Malubitang East (First Ascent)
  • 1960 – Annapurna II (First Ascent) (Joint Service)
  • 1962 – Khunyang Chhish also known as Khinyang Chhish
  • 1968 - Army East Greenland Expedition
  • 1969 – Tirich Mir
  • 1970 – Annapurna
  • 1972 – Axel Heiberg Island
  • 1974 – Lamjung Himal (See German Wiki page – de:Lamjung Himal for more info on Lamjung Himal)
  • 1975 – Nuptse (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)
  • 1976 – Mount Everest – South Col (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)
  • 1980 – Api
  • 1985 – Kirat Chuli (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)
  • 1987 – Shishapangma (Xixabangma) (Joint AMA / Civilian expedition)
  • 1987 – Saser Kangri (First Ascent of Saser Kangri IV)
  • 1988 – Mount Everest – West Ridge
  • 1990 – Gyachung Kang
  • 1992 – Annapurna IV
  • 1992 – Mount Everest – West Ridge
  • 1994 – Mount Foraker – Archangel Ridge (Second Ascent)
  • 1996 – Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)
  • 2000 – Kangchenjunga (Joint Service – Royal Navy lead)
  • 2004 – Makalu(Joint Service – RAF Lead)
  • 2006 – Mount Everest – West Ridge
  • 2007 – Shishapangma
  • 2008 – Makalu (Joint Service – RAF Lead)
  • 2012 – Antarctica – Graham Land (Joint Service – Army Lead)
  • 2015 – Mount Everest – North Ridge (Received AMA Support)

    • Climbing Competitions

    The AMA organizes bouldering and indoor sport climbing competitions for the Army. The first Army level sport climbing competition was organised at Bristol by Colonel Paul John Edwards on 28th April 1995. The AMA continues to organise indoor climbing competitions and now competes annually against the Royal Navy and RAF, as well as contributing members to the Combined Services Sport Climbing team, which competes regularly against military sport climbers from other countries.

    Prominent AMA members

    The following are current/former Presidents, Vice Presidents or Chairman of the AMA.

  • Field Marshal Sir Gerald Templer KG, GCB, GCMG, KBE, DSO (President) (Loyal Regiment (North Lancashire))
  • Brigadier John Hunt, Baron Hunt KG, CBE, DSO, PC (Vice President) (King's Royal Rifle Corps)
  • Sir Chris Bonington CVO, CBE, DL (Honorary Vice President) (Royal Tank Regiment)
  • Lieutenant Colonel Tony Streather OBE (Honorary President) (Gloucestershire Regiment)

    • UIAGM Mountain Guides: The following AMA members have become members of the British Association of Mountain Guides

  • Major Mac McKay (Royal Army Physical Training Corps)
  • Captain Stuart McDonald (Royal Engineers) (Everest Summiteer).
  • Warrant Officer Class 1 Paul Chiddle (Royal Army Physical Training Corps)
  • Captain Tania Noakes (Royal Signals)

    • Other notable AMA Members:

  • Lieutenant Colonel Charles Wylie OBE (Ghurkas) – Organising Secretary to the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.
  • Lieutenant Colonel J. O. M. Roberts MVO, MBE, MC (Ghurkas) – First Ascents of Annapurna II – 1960, Mera Peak – 20 May 1953 and Putha Hiunchuli – 11 Nov 1952.
  • Colonel Henry Day (Royal Engineers) – 2nd Ascent (and first British Ascent) of Annapurna, 20 May 1970.
  • Major Bronco Lane MM, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976
  • John Stokes (mountaineer) (Brummy Stokes), MBE, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976 with Bronco Lane
  • Major Mike Smith (Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers) – UK veteran sport climbing champion 2009

    • References

    Army Mountaineering Association Wikipedia
    (Text) CC BY-SA