Elevation 6,252 m Parent range Himalayas | First ascent 1990 | |
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Easiest route technical rock/snow/ice climb Mountain range Himalayas, Garhwal Himalaya Similar Bandarpunch, Kalanag, Nilkantha, Chaukhamba, Nag Tibba | ||
Swargarohini is a mountain massif in the Saraswati (Bandarpunch) Range of the Garhwal Himalaya. It lies in the Uttarkashi District of the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand, west of the Gangotri group of peaks. It comprises four separate peaks; Swargarohini I is the main peak, and is the subject of this article. While not particularly high by Himalayan standards, and not the highest in the Bandarpunch range, Swargarohini I is notable for its dramatic local relief. For example, its north face drops 2,000 metres (6,560 ft) in less than 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) of horizontal distance, and its south face achieves the same drop in less than 3 kilometres (1.9 mi). This makes it a steep and challenging climb. Swargarohini I has two summits, east and west. The east summit is given an elevation of 6,247 m (20,495 ft), slightly lower than the west summit. However the first ascensionists of the west summit claim that that summit is the higher of the two.
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Map of Swargarohini, Sankari Range, Uttarakhand 249141
This snow-clad peak along is the source of the Tons River and along with the Bandarpunch massif it acts as a divider between the Yamuna and the Bhagirathi Rivers.
Legends and history
Swargarohini derives it names from the Legends associated with that it peaks forms the path to heaven that was followed by Pandavas,But only One Pandava [Yudhishthira] & A Dog had reached to Heaven.According to Legends it is believed that is the only way one can go to heaven with the human body itself.
Climbing history
Swargarohini I has seen many climbing attempts. As of 1994, fifteen attempts had been made. On 25 October 1974, Charles Clarke (England); Dilsher Singh Virk, Peter Fuhrman and Bruce MacKinnon (Canada); and Mohan Singh and Rattan Singh (India) made the first ascent of the west summit of Swargarohini I, ascending from the west side.
The first ascent came on 3 May 1990, by a team of instructors from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. They climbed from the Ruinsara Valley on the north side, via the eastern col connecting the peak to the rest of the range, and found challenging rock climbing to achieve the col, leading to easier snow slopes above. However, other sources claim that this ascent stopped (5 m (16 ft)) short of the summit due to the presence of an unstable cornice.
The south face of the peak was attempted unsuccessfully in 1991. On 7 June 1993, an expedition from Sweden made the first undisputed ascent of the peak via this face. The summit team comprised Birger Andrén, Ingela Nilsson, and Ake Nilsson. They ascended a rock ridge on the eastern side of the south face, leading to the easy east-southeast ridge.