Sergey Anatolyevich Kofanov (Russian: Серге́й Анато́льевич Кофа́нов; born May 6, 1978) is a Russian mountaineer.
Since 1994, Kofanov is active in mountaineering. He is a professional mountain guide on all continents since 2005. For this period of time he has organized more than 30 expeditions, including international ones.
In May 2006 Kofanov took part in a rescue operation of Lincoln Hall on Mount Everest, who was on the verge of death in an altitude of 8700 m. Later he wrote a book, Dead Lucky, becoming a bestseller.
A year later he saved the life of the lost and dying Italian climber Marco Epis on the Everest, lowering him from an altitude of 8300 m. This was the first rescue operation on the Everest when it was organized by one person under such altitude. Many TV channels around the world made reports of this event, such as the Italian RAI-TV and the English Discovery Channel. In January 2009 he was awarded the medal "The Honour" by the Russian Award Committee for this heroic achievement.
In 2008 Kofanov was awarded the prestige mountaineering awards, the American Golden Piton and the European Grolla d`Or for the best ascent of 2007 (peak Jannu, 7710 m, Nepal). At the age of 28, he became the youngest Russian Everest summiter. Also he became the seventh and the youngest Russian who finished the project "7 Summits" (ascending the highest peaks of all continents). Kofanov was champion of national and international championships in alpinism and mountaineering. He is considered Merited Master of Sports of Russia.
Main sports achievements
2000 – won the National Mountaineering Championship and became the Champion of Russia.
2001 – won the bronze prize of the National Mountaineering Championship. Became the youngest Russian Master of Sports in alpinism category.
2002 – became the silver prize-winner of the National Mountaineering Championship.
2004 – won the bronze prize of the National Mountaineering Championship as the captain and leader of a state team. Has made ascents to the highest peaks of Australia and Japan – Kosiosko and Fuji.
2005 – became the silver prize-winner of the National Mountaineering Championship as "the playing" coach of the state team. Same year as the guide and the leader made ascents to the peak Denali (6195 m, the highest peak of North America), Kilimanjaro (5895 m, the highest peak of Africa, Tanzania) and E.Korzhenevskoj's peak (7105 m, Tajikistan)
2006 – as the guide made ascents to Everest (8848) from Tibet side, Elbrus (5642, the highest peak of Russia), Communism Peak (7495 m, Tajikistan) and Kilimanjaro (5895, Tanzania).
2007 - as the guide and the leader of expedition made ascents in Ecuador mountains and in Argentina to the highest peak of the South America - Aconcagua. For the second time successfully climbed the Everest. Took part in rescue of the Italian climber (Marco Epis) from altitude 8300 meters. For the fourth time climbed Kilimanjaro. In August again ascended to E.Korzhenevskoj's Peak (7105) and in October together with Valery Babanov (one of the most world-famous alpinist) made a new route of the highest category of difficulty to the Jannu (7771), Nepal which has been recognized society as the great world achievement in modern mountaineering.
2008 – as the leader of expeditions successfully climbed Kosiosko (Australia) in January, Cotopaxi (5800) and Chimborazo (6300) in Ecuador in February. Together with V. Babanov won the greatest American and European mountaineering awards – Golden Piton and Grolla D'Or for the best ascent of 2007 in the alpine style (Jannu, Nepal). Organized international expeditions to Kilimanjaro, Kosiosko and the highest peak of Oceania – Carstensz Pyramid (4884, Papua, New Guinea). Was the supervisor of the several expeditions to Elbrus. Under his guiding to Carstensz (Papua) for the first time climbed the first Russian woman and first Ukrainian mountaineer. In December successfully guided and summited the highest peak of Antarctica – Vinson massif and finished the «7 Summits» project.
2009 – in January summited the highest peak of Antarctica again. Under his guiding to the Vinson massif for the first time climbed Mongolian summiter. Tries to establish a time-record passage «7 Summits» project - now he is in Argentina, in plans for the near future the Everest, Elbrus and Denali.
2010 - In April Sergey was the organizer and head of the first team that ascended Ama-Dablam in the Himalayas that season. In August Kofanov participated in Snow Leopard (Snezniy Bars) program and made an attempt to ascend Han-Tengri. In autumn Sergey organized and conducted successful expedition to Ararat.
2011 - Sergey organized the outdoor technical training sessions on the cliffs in Crimea during spring. In summer he made the second attempt to climb Khan Tengri.
2013 - Sergey lead an expedition to the North Col of Everest in Tibet (in April). In May, as part of the "7 Summits" international program he ascended the top of McKinley (North America) for the third time.