Tripti Joshi (Editor)

Patrick Edlinger

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Nationality  French
Name  Patrick Edlinger

Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger Telegraph
Born  15 June 1960 (age 52), Dax (1960-06-15)
Type of climber  sport climbing, bouldering
Known for  Pioneer of Sport climbing
World finals  Rock Master: 1Sportroccia: 1
Similar People  Patrick Berhault, Catherine Destivelle, Alain Robert, Gerard Lanvin, Isabelle Patissier

Highest grade  Redpoint: 8c (5.14b)

Died  16 November 2012 (aged 52) La Palud-sur-Verdon

Opera vertical patrick edlinger restaured full movie


Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French free climber. He died in his home at La Palud-sur-Verdon in 2012. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing.

Contents

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Patrick edlinger une vie au bout des doigts


Early life

Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger competing at

Patrick Edlinger was born in 1960 in Dax, Landes, in southwestern France. He was barely a teenager when he began climbing and, after attaining his first job as a truck driver, decided he loved cliffs more than highways.

Career

Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger obituary World news The Guardian

In 1983 he made the first ascent of Ça Glisse Au Pays des Merveilles at Buoux, one of the first 8a (5.13b) in France. He won some of the first climbing competitions in history: Sportroccia in 1986, Rock Master and Snowbird in 1988.

Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger 52 a Trendsetter for Sport Climbing

He is also known to the world for his films on soloing in the steep, 1,500-foot Verdon. "Le Blond" had a smooth and beautiful style of climbing that lent itself to film. He became famous in 1982 after La Vie au bout des doigts, a documentary by Jean-Paul Janssen depicting him free-soloing in Buoux.

Final years and death

Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger SuperTopo Rock Climbing Discussion

After a near-fatal fall in 1995 from a steep-sided cove in southern France, Edlinger suffered a brief cardiac arrest. Following this he retired from the extreme forms of free climbing and co-founded the magazine Roc 'n Wall, which served as a bible to the burgeoning European "free solo" climbing movement. He settled close to Verdon Gorge, where the vacation rental he ran with his Slovakian-born wife Matia, Gîte l'Escales in La Palud-sur-Verdon, became a starting-point for rock climbers. His final years were marked by a long battle against depression and alcoholism which he described as the "greatest challenge of my life."

Edlinger died at age 52 after falling down stairs at his home. He is survived by his wife Maťa and their daughter Nastia, who was 10 years old at the time. The French minister of sports and youth, Valérie Fourneyron, Said of Edlinger, "Patrick was a pioneer in France for free climbing at a high level, a man who had a thirst for the absolute challenge. He refused to compromise and disdained conventions. He dedicated his life to his passion – climbing. He was the first to establish climbing as a true discipline of live art, paving the way for many to climb with respect for nature."

Climbs

The following list is a summary of his notable ascents:

  • 8c/5.14b:
  • Maginot LineVolx (FRA) – 1989 – Second ascent of Ben Moon's route (1989)
  • Azincourt – Buoux (FRA) – 1989 – Ben Moon's route (1989)
  • 8b+/5.14a:
  • AsymptoteSaint-Crépin (FRA) – 1989 – Second ascent of Antoine Le Menestrel's route (1987)
  • Les spécialistes – Verdon (FRA) – 1989 – Second ascent of Jean-Baptiste Tribout's route (1987)
  • Are you Ready?Châteauvert (FRA) – 1988 – First ascent
  • 8b/5.13d:
  • Les sucettes à l'anis – Cimaï (FRA) – 1988 – First ascent
  • 8a+/5.13c:
  • La Femme BlancheCéüse (FRA) – 1985
  • La Boule – Sainte-Victoire (FRA) – 1984 – First ascent
  • 8a/5.13b:
  • Orange Mécanique – Cimaï (FRA) – 1989 – Free solo ascent
  • Sphinx Crack – South Platte, Colorado (USA) – 1985
  • Ça glisse au pays des merveilles – Buoux (FRA) – 1983 – First ascent
  • 7c+/5.13a:
  • La Femme Noire (7c/7c+) – Céüse (FRA)
  • Fenrir – Verdon (FRA) – 1982 – First ascent
  • 7c/5.12d:
  • Medius – St. Victoire (FRA) – 1981
  • La Polka des ringards – Buoux (FRA) – 1980 – On-sight, first 7c (5.12d) on-sight in history
  • References

    Patrick Edlinger Wikipedia


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