Harman Patil (Editor)

North Twin Peak

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Location  Alberta, Canada
Easiest route  glacier/snowfield ski
First ascent  1923
Province  Alberta
Topo map  NTS 83C/03
Elevation  3,731 m
Prominence  1,011 m
First ascender  Conrad Kain
North Twin Peak wwwsummitpostorgimagesoriginal953860jpg
Listing  Canada highest major peaks 31st
Parent range  Winston Churchill Range
Mountain range  Canadian Rockies, Winston Churchill Range
Similar  Mount Brazeau, Mount Kitchener, Mount Bryce, Snow Dome, Mount Columbia

North Twin (Peak) is one of the two peaks that comprise The Twins massif located at the northeast corner of the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. The other lower peak is named South Twin (3,566 m). North Twin is the third highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, after Mount Robson and Mount Columbia.


Map of North Twin, Improvement District No. 12, AB, Canada

The massif was named The Twins in 1898 by J. Norman Collie and Hugh M. Stutfield. The decision to name the peaks separately was approved February 28, 1980.

In addition to North Twin and South Twin, the massif contains a northern subpeak of North Twin known as Twins Tower, 3,627 m (11,900 ft). This sits atop the famed north face of the massif (see below), and was named in 1984.


The first ascent of North Twin was recorded on 10 July 1923 by W.S. Ladd, J.M. Thorington, and Conrad Kain, via the East Face.

The normal route is a ski mountaineering climb on the eastern slopes, and it is possible to ski all the way to the summit. A traverse can be made to the South Twin, although an ice axe is recommended for the narrow connecting ridge.

Notable ascents

The nearly vertical north face drops over 1,500 m (4,921 ft) from Twins Tower to the Athabasca River - the true summit of North Twin is somewhat removed from the top of the north face. The north face is renowned in climbing circles and has been climbed by only four parties:

  • 1974 Lowe-Jones (VI 5.10 A3, 1500m), George Lowe and Chris Jones from 6 August to 12 August 1974.
  • 1985 North Pillar or Blanchard/Cheesemond by Barry Blanchard and Dave Cheesmond.
  • 2004 House/Prezelj by Steve House and Marko Prezelj.
  • 2013 North Pillar (2nd Ascent) by Josh Wharton and Jon Walsh.
  • References

    North Twin Peak Wikipedia