Location Alberta, Canada First ascent 1898 Province Alberta Parent range Winston Churchill Range | Elevation 3,371 m Prominence 211 m Mountain range Winston Churchill Range | |
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Topo map NTS 83C/06 Sunwapta Peak Easiest route rock/snow/glacier climb (South Ridge) Similar Mount Woolley, Mushroom Peak, Mount Cromwell, Mount Brazeau, North Twin Peak | ||
Mount woolley diadem peak columbia icefields alberta views
Diadem Peak is a peak located in the Sunwapta River Valley of Jasper National Park, Canada. Diadem Peak is essentially the high point of a ridge leading down from the slightly higher Mount Woolley (3,405 m (11,171 ft)). This peak was the first 11,000er north of the Columbia Icefield to be climbed and one of the few peaks in the Canadian Rockies to be climbed before 1900.
Contents
- Mount woolley diadem peak columbia icefields alberta views
- Map of Diadem Peak Improvement District No 12 AB Canada
- Diadem peak 3371m 11 060feet and mt woolly
- Climbing historyEdit
- References
Map of Diadem Peak, Improvement District No. 12, AB, Canada
The mountain was named in 1898 by the first ascent team of J. Norman Collie, Hugh Stutfield and Hermann Woolley. Upon reaching the summit, they discovered a crown (diadem) of snow about 30 m (98 ft) high covering the almost flat layer of rocks on top.
Diadem peak 3371m 11 060feet and mt woolly
Climbing historyEdit
In the summer of 1898, J. Norman Collie, Hugh Stutfield and Herman Woolley, had made their way up Woolley Creek and initially had their sights on reaching the top of Mount Woolley by climbing the icefield that separates Mt. Woolley from Diadem Peak. However, after a brief downpour which forced them to seek shelter among some rocks, they had just begun preparing the rope for ascending the icefield when a large collapse of ice from the summit made them switch their objective to Diadem Peak. The party ascended the southeast ridge along loose shale and ice, eventually finding a small rock rib that took them to the summit on August 25. Collie recorded an initial elevation of 11,500 feet (3,505 m) using a mercurial barometer. With the use of crampons, the difficulties of the southeast ridge route are reduced by following a shallow snow gully up much of the way.
In 1962, William Buckingham and Bill Hooker, ascended Diadem Peak by what is now known as the South Ridge route. This route initially traverses loose rock ledges to reach a snow/ice couloir which is followed until the glacier levels off and is no longer fractured. Traversing left across rock to the glacier, the route follows the glacier up to the Woolley-Diadem col where Diadem's summit is reached after an easy ascent up the ridge. Jim Elzinga and Jeff Marshall made the first ascent up a mixed route on the North face of Diadem in July 1981. This route is known as "Humble Horse" (IV, 5.7, W4).