Sneha Girap

Anderl Heckmair

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Nationality  German
Name  Anderl Heckmair

Role  Mountain climber
First ascents  Eiger
Anderl Heckmair Erstbegeher Erstdurchstieg Eigernordwand Grindelwald

Born  October 12, 1906 (1906-10-12) Munich, Germany
Occupation  Mountain climber, guide
Known for  Eiger north face first ascent
Died  February 1, 2005, Oberstdorf, Germany
Books  My life as a mountaineer, My Life: Eiger North Face, Grandes Jorasses and Other Adventures
Similar People  Ludwig Vorg, Fritz Kasparek, Heinrich Harrer, Christian Almer, Charles Barrington

Anderl Heckmaier -Bergführer- Zeitzeugen berichten- Agentur Meier zu Hartum


Andreas "Anderl" Heckmair (October 12, 1906 – February 1, 2005) was a German mountain climber and guide who led the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face in July 1938.

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Anderl Heckmair Heckmair Andreas quotAnderlquot WW2 Gravestone

Eiger first ascent

Anderl Heckmair Anderl Heckmair 19062005 Photos Diagrams amp Topos

The most experienced mountaineer in a group consisting of himself, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek, Heckmair led the most difficult pitches in the ascent, aided by the extensive kit (including new 12-point crampons) that he and Vörg had purchased using sponsors' money. He ran into several problems on the North Face of the Eiger, including a slip while climbing out of the exit cracks; Ludwig Vörg caught him by his feet, piercing his hand on Heckmair's crampons as he did so.

Anderl Heckmair 5wwwalpenguidedemimagecms13421jpg

The success brought Heckmair fame throughout the world, but particularly in his native Germany. The reception included an audience with Adolf Hitler (whom Heckmair had met before after working with Leni Riefenstahl). Although the Nazis used his achievement for propaganda Anderl shunned the publicity and never joined the Nazi party. After serving on the Eastern Front in World War II, he worked as a mountain guide in his native Bavaria, and was one of the driving forces in the formation of a professional association for mountain guides.

Anderl Heckmair Anderl Heckmair y Jos I Gordito Desnivel

In addition to the Eiger climb, Heckmair climbed new routes on the Grandes Jorasses and many other alpine mountains. He also participated in expeditions to the Andes and the Himalaya. He was also partially responsible for the development of the "two rope" climbing system. In 1934, he took part as a reserve of the DSV team (Franz Fischer, Gustav "Gustl" Müller, Matthias Wörndle) in the Trofeo Mezzalama ski mountaineering competition. Heckmair started one and a half hour after the teams as single runner and overtook all the competing teams.

Anderl Heckmair anderljpg

Anderl lived in Oberstdorf until his death.

Literature

  • Uli Auffermann: Was zählt ist das Erlebnis: Anderl Heckmair - Alpinist und Lebenskünstler; das Porträt des großen Bergführers und Erstbegehers der Eiger-Nordwand. (Vorwort von Martin Schließler). Semann Verlag, Bochum 2002, ISBN 3-00-008873-3.
  • Uli Auffermann, Anderl Heckmair: Zum Glück geht’s bergwärts. (Vorwort von Harry Valérien). Tyrolia Verlag, Innsbruck 2005, ISBN 3-7022-2690-7.
  • Anderl Heckmair: Eigernordwand, Grandes Jorasses und andere Abenteuer. (Vorwort von Reinhold Messner). AS Verlag, Zürich 1999, ISBN 3-905111-38-1.
  • David Pagel: My Dinner with Anderl. In: Allen Steck, Steve Roper: Ascent. AAC Press, Golden, CO, 1999, ISBN 0-930410-80-7, S. 13–26.
  • References

    Anderl Heckmair Wikipedia


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