The Grange (originally St Giles' Grange) is a suburb of Edinburgh, about one and a half miles south of the city centre, with Morningside and Greenhill to the west, Newington to the east, and Marchmont to the north. It is a conservation area characterised by large late Victorian stone-built villas, often with very large gardens. Many have now been sub-divided into flats, with further flats often being built on the grounds.
There are mentions of 'Sanct-Geill-Grange' in charters of King David and King Edgar, as church lands attached to St. Giles parish church in Edinburgh, the king retaining the superiority. The word grange is common across Britain and normally links to an extensive farm with a central mansionhouse (corrupting to the word range in America). On June 16, 1376, King Robert II granted the superiority of the barony and lands of St Giles to his eldest son, John, Earl of Carrick, Steward of Scotland. In 1391 the estate was conferred upon the Wardlaw family.
On October 29, 1506, St Giles Grange passed to John Cant, a Burgess of Edinburgh, and his spouse Agnes Carkettle, and in 1517 they granted the use of 18 acres (73,000 m2) of land to the nuns of St. Catherine of Siena. On March 19, 1691 a John Cant sold St Giles Grange in its entirety to William Dick. It is interesting to note that at that time the 18 acres (73,000 m2) previously feued to the nuns was now in the possession of Sir John Napier, the famous inventor of logarithms. When Isabel Dick, the heiress, married Sir Andrew Lauder, 5th Baronet of Fountainhall, in 1731, The Grange passed to him.
The original tower house appears to be of a very early date possibly the 13th century, ornamented with two turrets and a battlemented roof; its position was isolated at the eastern end of the Burgh Muir, which at that time consisted of waste tracts of moorland and morass, stretching out southward as far as the Braid Hills and eastward to St. Leonard's Crags.
The mansion, The Grange House, was enlarged over the centuries, a major restoration being carried out by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Bt. On May 16, 1836, Lord Cockburn recorded in his diary: "There was an annular eclipse of the sun yesterday afternoon....it was a beautiful spectacle......I was on the top of the tower at The Grange House, with Sir Thomas Dick Lauder and his family."
The house survived until 1936 when it was demolished to make way for flats. Stone wyverns from its gateposts, known locally as the 'Lauder griffins', were re-erected in Grange Loan. One was placed at the entrance to a stretch of Lover's Loan, a centuries-old path which was preserved in a late 19th-century redevelopment and is marked out with high stone walls separating it from the gardens on either side. At one point the path borders the Grange Cemetery where various well-known people are buried, including Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Hugh Miller, and Thomas Chalmers.
In 1825 Thomas Dick Lauder the then owner of the Grange, sold off a large area of land for development (mow the area between Dick Place and Grange Road. This linked to a new access road to the east (now called Newington Road). Lauder controlled development of the land through a strong feuing plan and developments required his approval. The original feuing plan included curious plot names such as Little Transylvania and Greater Transylvania (both north of Grange Loan). Grange House remained in a large plot in the centre of Grange Loan.
From the 1840s The Grange was developed as an early suburb, built gradually upon the lands of The Grange estate — still owned by the Dick Lauder family. The area was originally laid out by the architect David Cousin but then the feuing was altered (1858) and greatly extended southwards (1877, following great success) by the architect Robert Reid Raeburn.
Some of the Victorian villas still retain substantial mature trees and gardens which pre-date the housing. In 1835 Earl Grey (of Reform Bill fame) stayed with Sir Thomas Dick Lauder at The Grange House, and commemorated his visit by planting an oak-tree in a conspicuous spot in The Avenue, upon the bank of the north side, not very far from the ivy-clad arch. It was called 'Earl Grey's Oak' and was still healthy in 1898. It is not known if it has survived.
Within the area lies the campus of the Astley Ainslie Hospital. This large area of ground was gifted as a hospital in 1921 as part of the will of John Ainslie.
The Grange Cricket Ground is the last vestige of the major open space which used to surround Grange House.
This was laid out in 1847 by the Edinburgh architect David Bryce and is more rectilinear in layout than its predecessors, Warriston Cemetery and Dean Cemetery. It was original entitled the Southern Edinburgh Cemetery.
It includes a very interesting "Egyptian portal" to the land of the dead for the wife of a William Stuart (died 1868) on the north wall, by the sculptor Robert Thomson. Sculptures by William Birnie Rhind (Dr. James Cappie) and Henry Snell Gamley (David Menzies) can also be found. There are also multiple ornate Celtic crosses, mainly by Stewart McGlashan. Other notable graves include:
John Brown Abercromby (1843-1929), artistHarry Burrows Acton (1908-1974)Prof David Laird AdamsSir Andrew Agnew, 7th BaronetRev William ArnotRev David Arnott DDSir William James and Sir James Gardiner Baird, 7th and 8th Baronets of Saughton HallVery Rev John Baillie, Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, 1943/44Sir Andrew Balfour, physician (grave vandalised)James Bannerman (theologian)John Bartholomew, Sr. and John Bartholomew Jr. mapmakersJohn Begg (architect)George Bertram, engineer and paper-makerBenjamin Blyth (engineer)Hugh Wylie Brown FRSE, actuaryRev John Brown, Moderator of the Church of Scotland 1916 (his memorial also marks 4 sons lost in WWI)George Washington Browne (architect)Viscount Bryce politicianJames Bryce (geologist) plus his son John Annan Bryce, MP for InvernessRev James BuchananRev Dr Thomas Burns (1853-1938) founder of the Thomas Burns HomesSir John Alexander CalderEdward Calvert (architect)James Roderick Johnston Cameron, author, President of the Royal College of Surgeons of EdinburghDr John Henry Campbell, monument by John Hutchison RSAJohn Irvine Carswell FRSE engineerDr Thomas ChalmersDugald Christie (missionary)Rev Prof G. N. M. Collins twice Moderator of the General Assembly of the Free Church of ScotlandRobin CookAlexander Cowan papermaker and philanthropist, with his son James, Lord Provost of Edinburgh and MP for EdinburghSir Robert CranstonRear Admiral Octavius Cumberland (1813-1877)Rev Prof William CunninghamWalter Scott Dalgleish (1834-1897) authorProf Andrew B. DavidsonLt Col Lewis Merson Davies geologist and anti-evolutionistThe Dick Lauder baronetsWilliam Kirk Dickson and his son, Rear Admiral Robert Krk DicksonAlexander Graham Donald FRSE FSA FFAMorrell Draper FRSE, Australian born toxicologistRev Alexander Duff (missionary)Rev Prof John Duncan (theologian)Rev Patrick FairbairnProf Robert McNair Ferguson LLD (1829-1912) mathematicianRev Thomas FinlaysonRev William Galbraith (mathematician)Rev James Gall astronomer and founder of Carrubbers Close Mission.William Galloway (architect) (1830-1897) early conservation architect and historianDr Jessie Gellatly MD one of Britain's first female doctorsArchibald H. R. Goldie, FRSE, meteorologistGiles Alexander Esme GordonSir James GowansGeneral James Hope GrantAlan William Greenwood FRSE, zoologistDavid Grieve FRSE PRPSE, geologistJohn William Gulland MP and his nephew, John Masson Gulland FRS FRSE, chemistWilliam Maxwell Gunn LLD (1795-1851) authorDr Thomas GuthrieRobert Halliday Gunning surgeon and philanthropistHenry Haig (engraver) (1795-1848)Rev William Hanna (1808-1882)Canon Edward Joseph Hannan, co-founder of Hibernian Football ClubAdmiral John Hay (1804-1899)John Henderson (architect) (1804-1862)Prof William Henderson (physician and homeopath)Robert Herdman RSA, Victorian artistRev William Maxwell Hetherington (stone carved by John Rhind)William Ballantyne HodgsonWilliam Hole (artist)... (buried in the ground of James Lindsay WS)The Home baronets, John (1872-1938, 12th Baronet of Blackadder) and David George (1904–1992, 13th Baronet of Blackadder)John Hutchison (sculptor)David Irving (librarian)Alexander Keith Johnston (1804–1871) geographer (also memorialising his son of the same name, an African explorer).Christian Isobel Johnstone author, journalist and feministProf Arthur Berriedale KeithDavid Kennedy (1825–1886) Scottish singer (subject of a monument at the foot of Calton Hill) plus his daughter Marjory Kennedy-FraserJohn Kinross (architect)Thomas Dick Lauder, author and landownerProf Simon Somerville Laurie, educatorRobert Lawson (physician) FRSE (1846-1896)Rev Prof Robert Lee DD FRSE theologian (sculpted by John Hutchison)William Lennie (grammarian) (1779-1852)Rev Mary Levison DD (born Mary Irene Lusk), first ordained female minister in the Church of ScotlandProf David ListonDavid Fowler Lowe FRSE LLD (1843-1924, Headmaster of George Heriot's SchoolSir George McCrae (politician) (1860-1928)Very Rev James MacGregor DD (1834-1910) Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland 1891Paul MacKenzie (physician) (1919-2015) soldier and sportsmanJames MacKillop, MPMeta Maclean, authorCharles Maclaren, founder and editor of the Scotsman newspaperHector C. Macpherson FRSE author and journalistSir Alexander Charles Gibson MaitlandCharles Alexander Malcolm, historian and authorRev Prof William Manson theologianDavid Masson historianDavid Mekie and his son, Prof David Mekie OBE FRSE surgeonMemorial to Wiliam Babington Melville, killed in the Manipur Massacre of 1891Duncan Menzies (1837-1910) architect and engineerHugh Miller (pioneer geologist)Prof James Miller FRSE (1812-1864)Rev Dr William Milligan (1821-1893)Sir Henry Moncrieff, 2nd Baron Moncrieff with a sculpture of his wife "Minna" on the stoneRobert Morham (architect)John Muir (indologist)Sir Andrew Mure (1826-1909) judgeDuncan Napier (herbalist)James Napier (chemist)Thomas Nelson (publisher)John Pringle Nichol (astronomer)Rev Dr Maxwell Nicholson DD, author, minister of both Tron Kirk and then St StephensProf James Nicol geologistVery Rev Robert Nicol, Moderator of the Church of Scotland 1914Very Rev Prof Thomas Nicol DD, theological author, Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland 1914Frederick Niecks musical scholarJohn Nisbet, artist (with his 3 wives)Pollock Sinclair Nisbet, artistRobert Buchan Nisbet, artistThomas Oliver, co-founder of Oliver & BoydGeorge Ann Panton (1842-1903) and his namesake nephew (1857-1934) both Fellows of the Royal Society of EdinburghSir Edward Parrott politicianWaller Hugh Paton RSA, artistVery Rev David Paul DD LLD FLS, Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland in 1915Sir Robert William Philip, pioneer of tuberculosisJames Ramage (artist) (1824-1887)James Reed FRSE engineerVery Rev George T. H. Reid MC DD (1910-1990) Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland in 1973Rev Prof Alexander MacDonald Renwick DD, theological authorJohn Thomas Rochead, architect of the Wallace MonumentSir Hugh Arthur Rose and his son, Sir Hugh RoseFrederick Schenck, lithographerDr Robert Edmund Scoresby-Jackson FRSE physician and biographerSir Thomas Drummond Shiels MPProf James Young Simpson (scientist) and his father Sir Alexander Russell SimpsonSir William Lowrie Sleigh, Lord Provost of Edinburgh 1923-6Prof George SmeatonGeorge Smith RSA (1870-1934) artistThe sculptor brothers David Watson Stevenson and William Grant Stevenson buried togetherRev William King Tweedie DD (1803-1864) religious author and his son, Major General William Tweedie of the Sepoy mutinyAndrew UsherSir John Usher, BaronetCecil Voge FRSE (1898-1978) chemistSir George Warrender of Lochend, 6th Baronet (after whom the Warrender section of Marchmont is named)George Mackie Watson (1860-1948) architectRev Robert Boog Watson (1823-1910), scientistDavid Monro Westland, architect/engineer (creator of the North Bridge)Prof Charles Richard Whittaker FRSE (1879-1967) anatomistHarry Martin Willsher, authorRobert Wilson architect of the Edinburgh Board SchoolsSir James Lawton Wingate (artist)Sir Alexander Kemp Wright, bankerRobert Stodart Wyld LLD (1808-1893) historianRobert Young (biblical scholar)There are war graves of 40 Commonwealth service personnel of both World Wars and a communal grave for the nuns of St Margaret's Convent.
Residents of the suburb have included the author J.K. Rowling and the former CEO of RBS, Fred Goodwin. Goodwin relocated from The Grange after the vandalism to which his property there was subjected but has since returned after his wife's throwing him out of their family home in Colinton due to revelations of his marital infidelity.
The Grange was also a principal filming location during the production of the BBC Three comedy-drama Pramface which starred Scarlett Alice Johnson and Sean Michael Verey in the lead roles. The Grange features extensively in the showpiece but is appropriated in order to pose as an upmarket North London suburb due to its appearance similarities for the sake of plot integration.