Offset figure eight bend

The offset figure-eight bend or flat figure-eight bend or abnormal figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers. The knot may invert itself under load, as shown in the figure, and this can happen repeatedly. Each inversion reduces the lengths of the tails. If the tails are used up completely, the knot comes undone.

More secure knots for this purpose are the Flemish bend, offset overhand knot, or double fisherman's knot.