The Nanaimo River climbing area is located near the city of Nanaimo, adjacent to the Nanaimo River. The rock is mainly sandstone and conglomerate. There are two crags in this area called Sunny Side and Dark Side. They are aptly named as Sunny Side is located on the north side of the river, where it receives more sun than the Dark Side, which is located in a ravine on the south side. During the summer the water warms up to around 24-25°C (75-77°F), so the river is visited by swimmers, kayakers and fishermen. There is a tyrolean traverse between the two areas that crosses the river just to the west of both climbing areas.
Contents
History
Bolted routes started being set during the late eighties / early nineties. Nanaimo River is not, and has never been, a developed or maintained park.
Getting there
Driving north past the Nanaimo Airport, take the first right off the #1 highway onto Nanaimo River Road. This road will pass under the highway, and cross over railroad tracks. Continue until major power lines pass over head. This is where you park. Walk under the power lines to the south. The trail will fork into three: the first right will take you to the top of the cliffs, the second right will take you down some steps to the bottom of the cliffs, and the final path continues to the left and takes you to the swimming area.
Climbs
There are several cliff faces on the Sunny Side. The First Cliffs are literally the first set of cliffs you pass when approaching from the stairs. The Upper Deck is the higher portion of the cliffs that can either be approached from the top via the first path turning off. The Lower Deck is directly underneath the Upper Deck, and can either be approached by a rappel, or by scrambling over rocks from an approach path between the first cliffs, and the Upper Deck.
Getting there
Driving north on Highway #1, take the first left immediately after the first bridge onto Spruston Road. Take a right on Riverbend Road until the end where it will turn into a dirt road under the power lines. There is a parking area at the end of the short dirt road portion of Riverbend Road, under the power lines.
After parking, walk along the trail staying on top of the southern edge of the river bank. Eventually the trail will lead down into a canyon. Passing under a large bolder stuck as a chockstone, bolted routes will appear on both sides of the canyon.