Khara dupatta (upright stole) is the traditional wedding dress of Hyderabadi Muslim brides. It is an elaborate wedding ensemble comprising a kurta (tunic), chooridaar (extra-long slim pants that gather at the ankles), and a 6-yard dupatta (stole or veil).
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History
Early in the 17th century, Turkish and Persian craftsmen were invited to India by Mughal Empress Noor Jehan to craft a noble dress, that became particular only for family members of Mughal noble ladies . The art of dupatta crafting remain particular to Mughal descendants. Later when Mughal governor Nizam-ul-Mulk declared his autonomy over Hyderabad Deccan Suba, the begums of Nizam's family modified the creative style of Mughals to form Khara Dupatta. Which was later practiced by general residents of Hyderabad. The montage gallery at Chowmahalla Palace exhibits the life style royal dresses of Nizams Begums which includes Kara Dupatta.
The ensemble
Sometimes the kurta is worn with a long, lightweight sleeveless overcoat or a shorter koti, a bolero-like waistcoat. The brides wears a matching ghoonghat (veil) over the head.
The dupatta is usually made of net material and embroidered with zardozi work. The border of the dupatta has masala or a ribbon border with embroidered golden motifs.
The usual accompanying jewellery is:
Wearing style
The dupatta is draped with the very top part of the middle of the dupatta tucked into the back of the chooridaar. The dupatta is folded accordion pleats at both ends, which are held in place on the left shoulder with a brooch. The free ends of the dupatta are worn under the right shoulder and over the inside of the right elbow.