Harman Patil (Editor)

Eldorado Peak

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Parent range
  
North Cascades

Mountain type
  
Orthogneiss

Elevation
  
2,703 m

Prominence
  
667 m

Age of rock
  
Cretaceous

Topo map
  
USGS Eldorado Peak

Easiest route
  
East Ridge, class 2

First ascent
  
27 August 1933

Mountain range
  
North Cascades

Eldorado Peak httpsfarm7staticflickrcom60025961629987771

First ascenders
  
Norval Grigg, Donald Blair, Arthur Winder, Arthur Wilson

Similar
  
Forbidden Peak, Goode Mountain, Buckner Mountain, Boston Peak, Sahale Mountain

Eldorado Peak is a 8,868-foot (2,703 m) peak, and is the 25th highest peak in Washington. The mountain is located in the North Cascades of Washington, approximately 27 miles (43 km) east of Concrete. It is located in North Cascades National Park at the head of Marble Creek and just west of the Inspiration Glacier. Other glaciers in the immediate vicinity include Eldorado Glacier and McAllister Glacier; thus Eldorado is flanked by the largest continuous non-volcanic ice sheet in the lower 48 states.

Contents

Map of Eldorado Peak, Washington, USA

Orography

Eldorado appears quite different depending on the side one is viewing. On the west side the peak is a steep face made of vertical slabs and small gullies. From the east side the mountain is a small rocky outcropping surrounded by ice. The south face is a triangular face flanked by long ridgelines. The most popular and easiest climbing route is from the south and east, via the Inspiration Glacier and a moderately steep snow ridge. Eldorado is a popular climbing destination due to easy access, being one of the 100 highest peaks in Washington, and superb mountain views. Most climbers will take two days to complete the trip, though the climb can be completed in one long day.

Routes

  • West Arete rock route up the west face class 5.8 Grade IV
  • East ridge Glacier travel to steep snow ascent class 2
  • Northeast ridge ice and snow ascent Class AI2
  • Northwest Ice Corridor ice and rock class M3 to M4
  • Geology

    Eldorado is very simple geologically when compared to other mountains in the Cascades, with only one major rock type, Cretaceous orthogneiss, more specifically biotite granodiorite . Only the lowest flanks are made of different rock types, mostly heterogeneous metamorphic rock. There are only two normal faults: one on the east flank, the other on the west flank.

    References

    Eldorado Peak Wikipedia