First ascent 5 July 1939 | Elevation 7,066 m Prominence 1,200 m | |
Easiest route southwest ridge: rock/snow/ice climb Similar Kamet, Changabang, Hathi Parbat, Trisul, Nanda Devi | ||
Dunagiri (7,066 m) is one of the high peaks of the Chamoli District Himalayas in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand. It lies at the northwest corner of the Sanctuary Wall, a ring of peaks surrounding Nanda Devi and enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.
Map of Dunagiri, Chamoli, Uttarakhand 246443
Dunagiri was first climbed on 5 July 1939 by the Swiss climbers André Roch, F. Steuri, and D. Zogg, via the southwest ridge. In 1975, Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw climbed a particularly difficult route on the southeast buttress in a significant milestone for alpine-style climbing. In 1978 the first Australian Himalayan expedition by the Australian National University Mountaineering Club made the fourth ascent via the south-west ridge. Lincoln Hall and Tim Macartney-Snape made the final summit attempt with Macartney-Snape successfully summiting.