First ascent 4 June 1974 Mountain range Himalayas | Elevation 6,864 m Prominence 300 m | |
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Easiest route Southeast Face/East Ridge (snow/ice climb) Similar Dunagiri, Kalanka, Trisul, Kamet, Hardeol | ||
Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbor Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.
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Map of Changabang, Chamoli, Uttarakhand 246443
First ascent
Changabang was first climbed on 4 June 1974 by an expedition led by Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu and Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain.
Notable ascents
Other notable ascents include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya.
On 12 October 2006, two Mexican climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, summited Changabang by a new route. While descending, they encountered a storm and were officially reported missing by the Indian Mountaineering Federation on 15 October, when they last made a contact via satellite phone. An initial rescue effort was made despite harsh weather conditions, but on 8 November 2006 the search was canceled due to continued harsh weather.