Category Loop Typical use climbing | Efficiency 70-75% ABoK #1013 | |
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Names Double bowline, Round Turn Bowline, Double-Knotted Bowline Related | ||
A double bowline (or round turn bowline) is a type of loop knot. Instead of the single turn of the regular bowline, the double bowline uses a round turn. This forms a more secure loop than a standard bowline.
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Naming
Though called "double bowline" by Clifford Ashley, this name is also reasonably descriptive of a different knot: the bowline on a bight. Because of this ambiguity some sources differentiate by using one of the alternate names above. And at least one other source uses the name "double bowline" for a mid-line loop knot made by tying a basic bowline with a bight of rope instead of the end.
Tying
First, learn to tie the bowline by laying the working end on the standing part and twisting to form a loop (the "hole" that the rabbit comes out of). Wrap the loop once more around the working end. Then pass the working end behind the standing part and back down through the double loop.
Uses
The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the figure eight loop and the Yosemite bowline.p. 136. The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is that it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall.
The double bowline is commonly used by sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights. The disadvantage of the double bowline is that it is less secure than a figure eight knot.
The Bowline on a bight, when re-threaded instead of being tied on a bight, can also be used for tying into a climbing harness and provides more strength and security than the double bowline.