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Bunda de Fora is a sport climb located in Acephale, Alberta, Canada. At a grade of 9a (5.14d) it is one of the most difficult climbs in North America and possibly Canada’s hardest sport climb.
Contents
History
Bunda de Fora was first bolted by Ryan Johnstone; however, it remained unclimbed for a number of years until Lev Pinter established the first ascent in 2006. Unsure of the grade, Pinter proposed a grade of 5.14c. Repeat ascentionists have since upgraded the climb to 5.14d.
In the summer of 2011, a crucial hold broke which significantly increased the difficultly and duration of the crux sequence as well as increasing the difficultly of clipping. However, the grade remained unchanged at 5.14d. The climb has seen 4 repeats since the hold broke. It is worth noting the first 3 ascentionists used dramatically different sequences through the broken section.
The Climb
Bunda de Fora sits nestled in one of two prominent steep caves at the Upper Wall of Acephale. These two caves house the majority of the 5.14s at Acephale as well as some 5.13+ climbs. The climb is 20m long. Although relatively short, the difficulty of the moves and number of difficult moves are enough to support the grade. It is a true power endurance test piece.
Roughly translated Bunda de Fora is Portuguese for “ass out.” It is a term referring to bar patrons sitting off the edge of bar stools. The route is named for its namesake move where one must set a toe hook and stick one’s ass out from the wall in order to execute a crux move.
Bunda de Fora opens with difficult climbing on small edges and difficult clips. From there a long V13 (8b) crux sequence through a roof awaits. A large hold at the lip of the roof after the crux allows climbers to catch their breath before the final technical 5.13c push to the anchors.
Curiosities
Bunda de Fora in the Portuguese language means "naked ass", in this case suggesting that the climber will have to maintain is "ass out from the wall" or "the worst movements".