Location Frankenjura, Germany | Route Type Sport Climb | |
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Climbing Area Krottenseer Forst (crag Waldkopf) Rating First free ascent Wolfgang Güllich, 1991. | ||
Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Contents
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength needed for this route.
HistoryEdit
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
AscentsEdit
The repeat ascents were by: