Synthetic alexandrite is an artificially-grown variety of chrysoberyl crystal, composed of beryllium aluminum oxide (BeAl2O4). The name is also often used erroneously to describe synthetically-grown corundum.
Most true synthetic Alexandrite is grown by pulling, known as the Czochralski method. Another method is a "floating zone". This method was developed by an Armenian scientist, Khachatur Saakovich Bagdasarov, of the Russian (former Soviet) Institute of Crystallography, in Moscow, in 1964, and was widely used in production of white YAG for spacecraft and submarine illuminators, before finding its way into the jewelry market. Alexandrite crystals, grown by floating zone method, tend to have less intensity in color, than crystals grown by the pulled method.
Flux-grown alexandrite is more difficult to identify because the inclusions of undissolved flux can look like natural inclusions. Alexandrite grown by the flux-melt process will contain particles of flux, resembling liquid feathers with a refractive index and specific gravity that echo that of the natural material. Layers of dust-like particles parallel to the seed plate, and strong banding or growth lines may also be apparent. Some stones contain groups of parallel negative crystals. Flux grown alexandrites are more difficult to spot because the colors are convincing and because they are not clean. These stones are expensive to make and are grown in platinum crucibles. Crystals of platinum may still be evident in the cut stones. Due to the cost of this process, it is no longer used commercially.
> Please note that the "dust like particles" parallel to the seed plate / face(s) may be either flux, due to seed face angle being off slightly due to seed lapping prior to growth, causing rapid growth, as well as the lapped surface of the seed material when first introduced to the "growth cycle".
The "platinum crystals", as referenced, are certainly not Pt, but instead are a Silicon Carbide type emitted from the furnace heating elements, during flux change and the required "run up" to max temp for the growth cycle to begin again. The temperature range for crystal growth in this case was 1200C > 1100C in a weekly, or bi weekly, cycle. The crystals in the growth cycle (greater than six weeks) never leave the furnace during flux change. The crucible is removed and flux discarded and then replaced. The cycle continues. The "platinum crystals", as they were called, are of the habit of silicon carbide, flat metallic "pyramids" with each of the three corner points "snipped" off. The "pt crystal" location on the crystal growth plane corresponding to the growth cycle flux replenishment, at that time when the "seed frame" holding the growing crystals, was exposed to the open furnace chamber elements as the heating elements ramped up to max temp prior to the growth cycle.Czochralski or pulled alexandrite is easier to identify because it is very clean. Curved striations visible with magnification are a give away. The color change in pulled stones has seen change from blue to red, which resemble alexandrite from Brazil, Madagascar, and India. Seiko synthetic alexandrites have a swirled internal structure characteristic of the floating zone method of synthesis. They have tadpole inclusions (with long tails) and spherical bubbles.
The Inamori synthetic alexandrite had a cat's eye variety, which showed a distinct color change. The eye was broad and of moderate intensity. Specimens were a dark greyish-green with slightly purple overtones under fluorescent lighting. The eye was slightly greenish-bluish-white and the stones were dull and oily. They appeared to be inclusion-free and under a strong incandescent light in the long direction, asterism could be seen with two rays weaker than the eye. This has not been reported in natural alexandrite. Under magnification, parallel striations could be seen along the length of the cabochon and the striations were undulating rather than straight, again not a feature of natural alexandrite.
The name allexite has been used for synthetic alexandrite manufactured by the Diamonair Corporation who maintains that its product is Czochralski-grown. The largest producer of jewelry quality laboratory-grown alexandrite to this day is Tairus. Production capacity is in the range of 100 kg/year.
Most gemstones described as synthetic alexandrite are actually simulated alexandrite - synthetic corundum laced with vanadium to produce the color change. This alexandrite like sapphire material has been around for almost 100 years. The material shows a characteristic purple-mauve color change which, although attractive, differs from alexandrite because there is never any green. The stones will be very clean and may be available in large sizes. Gemological testing will reveal a refractive index of 1.759–1.778 (corundum) instead of 1.741–1.760 (chrysoberyl). Under magnification, gas bubbles and curved stria may be evident. When examined with a spectroscope a strong vanadium absorption line at 475 nm will be apparent.